No, I haven’t completely lost the plot – bear with me on this one.
For those who don’t know, bodyboarding1 is a bit like surfing, except you lie down on a small, rigid foam board that’s about a meter in length. It’s also huge fun. Bodyboarding is often done much closer to shore than surfing, sometimes only riding small waves for a few meters until they break.
If you’re good/lucky you get to ride all the way back into shore before grabbing your board and running back out to get the next wave. If you’re unlucky you get pile-driven into the sea by the breaking wave and then tossed about violently. For larger waves the best advice is to just relax when this happens as it lessens the chance of breaking something.
So, Techstars. You get there, you charge out to sea, grab the first wave in and it’s awesome. You do it again, and again, and again, and it’s huge fun. It’s tiring, but you want to get back out there and ride another wave in. And then a big wave comes out of nowhere, slams you into seabed and threatens to drown you2. So you pick yourself up and you go find another wave because hopefully that’ll be fun and you want something to take your mind of the rather crap experience you just had.
Today was big wave, huge high, massive wipeout as the wave broke and crappy surf for the rest of the day. Hopefully tomorrows surf is better.
1 Or Boogieboarding if you prefer
2 This is also a good description of a holiday I had at Bathsheba in Barbados. Nearly drowned on a few occasions. Huge fun.